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Shanghai 2012: Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Sorry this took awhile. I’ve saved the best meal in Shanghai for last :)

Dining at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana was one of the highlights of the trip. Located just steps away from The Bund, within the newly-renovated Rockbund development, the restaurant boasts a stunning view of the Pudong skyline and The Bund. But honestly, if you ask me, it’s more the decadently delicious food than the view that would draw me to the restaurant for a second visit.

There is already so much great food in Shanghai but the appearance of Umberto Bombana’s Shanghai establishment of his three Michelin-starred restaurant has upped the ante of fine dining in the city. L only found out about the restaurant through his friend, C, while he was there and managed to score us a table for four even though he called only two days in advance. But before you think they accept last minute bookings, I have to qualify that it was newly-opened, our reservations were for a Monday night and our slot was for 9 p.m. So I would imagine that as word gets out, it would only get more difficult to get a slot. Do make your reservations as early as possible.

Foggy view of the Pudong skyline from Puxi

After spending the afternoon cooped up at the tailor’s, L decided we should head out for dinner early and pop by The Bund for a short walk. So we did. For such a chilly Spring evening, there sure were a lot of people hanging outdoors. Half of the Oriental Pearl Tower was hidden behind the fog but tourists and locals alike seem happy just leaning against the railings by the river, watching the lighted boats glide by and capturing memories of the night.

We had intended work up an appetite with the walk and I wouldn’t have minded except that I was quite – ok, make that very – under-dressed for the chilly evening. 20 minutes into the walk, my teeth started chattering and jaw started aching so I felt quite miserable and grumpy, indeed. Not like my vanity was any of L’s fault but he had to bear the brunt of my discomfort and cut short the stroll.

It got infinitely better once we were within the maroon walls of the Mission Building. We hopped into the old school wooden lift and made our way up to the sixth floor. A wait staff greeted us at the entrance and showed us to our table in the main dining room, which was located by a window with a stunning view of the city lights.

As I perused the menu, the bread basket containing mini baguettes, focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes and some other seeded bread was served. C and D arrived shortly after. We could now embark on the evening’s gastronomic journey.

The meal started with the day’s amouse bouche of freshly-shucked oyster on caviar. Sounds good to some of you? Not me. I am not a fan of oysters and neither is L. Believe it or not, it was both our first times trying out fresh, uncooked oysters. I was ready to let it go to someone else but talked myself into giving it a shot since I would have to try it at some point. I took photos of us with the single oyster to document our virgin attempt at ‘kissing the sea on the lips’, drenched it with a slice of lemon and introduced it to my taste buds.

With all that rave about oysters and people dedicating an entire blog post to the taste of oysters, I was half expecting the ocean to explode in my mouth. I chewed lightly and waited… and almost had a gag reflex. I might have thrown up if I hadn’t forced it down my throat in a single gulp. What a travesty, right. I know. This is really just not for me, I’m sorry. I would give oysters another shot if an opportunity comes along (and I’m pretty sure oyster lovers would kill for the one I just had) but the first time just didn’t do it for me.

D ordered a platter of cheese because C insisted we must try them (they were great but I can’t recall what we had), and selected a 2009 Ca’ Marcanda Gaja Promis from Tuscany for the table. I normally prefer whites but this bottle was a pleasure to drink – deep red, fruity, medium-bodied (somewhere between a Merlot and Sangiovese) with soft tannin. I found my glass empty twice that night. That’s saying a lot.

L and I shared an appetizer of warm scallops which came with garden vegetables and black olives, all resting in a bright puddle of sweet pepper mayonnaise. The scallops were fat and sweet and incredibly succulent. I love scallops and would probably not have shared it with anyone if I could help it but, ah well, I decided I shouldn’t be bratty and selfish to my date :P

C also ordered the foie gras with eel and toast for the table. I feel for goose liver the same way I feel for shark’s fin so I was adamant about even trying it but she urged me to because it was too good to miss. I scrapped a mini forkful and as the taste sunk in I immediately thought, “Ohhh dammit, it is REALLY good.” It was so annoyingly fabulous I would disregard my cholesterol levels and morals and live with the guilt for a bit.

Urgh, why do I have the spine of a snail when it comes to food??

Now onto the mains. I ordered the short rib and beef tenderloin that came with seasonal vegetables, red wine plum sauce and potato purée. Even though I had them done medium-well, the short rib was meltingly tender, lightly charred on the outside and lusciously pink and juicy in the middle. No blood, exactly how I like my steak.

For his main, L had the pappardelle with lamb & porcini ragout and rosemary. I only managed to steal a mouthful and have kind of forgotten how it tastes like. If L is willing to contribute, I’ll add his review here (hint). At this point, I think D and C were selling the expat lifestyle and trying to convince me to relocate to Shanghai. They are remarkably skilled salespeople so I must have been quite distracted, maybe even a little swayed. Not helped by the fact that there I was, having one of the best meals of my life smack in the middle of said city.

And so the fabulous journey ended. With one of the most unique petit fours I’ve ever had. Actually only one item of the four blew me away but it fully made up for the rest. See that gold-looking blob on the spoon? That’s the one. I thought it was a jellybean of some sort but when I popped it into my mouth, I had to stifle an inappropriate gasp. The thin layer of gold jelly gave way to an explosion of pear/almond flavours and rested on my taste buds lightly… Bombana is a wizard.

Ah, good food does make one very, very happy, indeed. I felt like bliss as we stepped out into the quiet night and walked down the cobblestone and lamp-lit streets of the Rockbund with L. It will be a while before I visit Shanghai again. Can’t think of a better way to end the evening, or a better meal to conclude the trip with.
 

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana
6/F, Mission Building
169 Yuanmingyuan Lu
Huang Pu District
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 60872 890

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shanghai 2012: Brunch at Kommune

I was telling L that I’m working on my post featuring Kommune (he has been bugging me to complete my travelogues) and although we both agree that the food, while very decent, is nothing much to shout about, I decided it still deserves a post of its own because of the quirky details they’ve thrown into the experience.

It is an Australian café so they have your usual western fare during the day. At night, the place transforms into a chill-out pub serving up a whole range of cocktails and a decent variety of wines. It’s really nice to dine al fresco in the Spring weather but alas, it is a popular place and we were lucky to have gotten seats at all seeing how late we arrived. Since it’s one of the earliest restaurants to settle in on Taikang Lu, it has been visited by many and written to death about – see TimeOut, City Weekend, and ooh look what I found, Beverly’s review – so I’m just going to post pictures.

The cup is wayyy bigger than L’s fist
 

So much coffee!
 

Big breakfast
 

Cutlery and salt, pepper and sugar in test tubes – CUTE
 

Wedges to share
 

Where there’s food, there’s me

Next up, a meal with Michelin chefs in the house – stay tuned!
 

Kommune
Room 5, Lane 7
210 Taikang Lu (near Sinan Lu)
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 6466 2416

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shanghai 2012: Tang’s Cuisine

It was my third day in Shanghai and by this time, I had already consumed enough rich and greasy food to probably last me a month. But this trip was purely to catch up on all the food in Shanghai, and we didn’t see ourselves (or at least I didn’t see myself) returning anytime soon so we kept up the pace.

L woke up early to queue for some of Xiao Yang’s sheng jian for breakfast. I lazed in bed until he came back with two boxes of those ultra-sinful calorie bombs, still sizzling hot when we started eating.

Sheng jian, a sort of love child of xiaolongbao and guo tie, are fried on a cast iron pan until the bottoms turn deep golden brown and deliciously crispy. What makes them so addictive and yet, so tricky to eat, is the scalding hot pork broth which surrounds the juicy meat filling.

– CNNGo

We savoured every drop of the broth in the bun while waiting for Ben to wake up. When he finally did, I was all ready for our next meal.

L had always wanted to me try Tang’s Cuisine (or Tanggong Yihao) because they do some really great dim sum. Fortunately or unfortunately, it was packed with the lunchtime crowd and required an hour’s wait, so we decided to squeeze in a foot massage just next door.

By the time we were done with our hour-long massage, the crowd had more or less dispersed and we were seated very quickly. Very pleased I managed to get a shot of everything we ordered (I usually miss a dish or two once we start eating) so here goes.

Hungry after a massage
 

Me and Mr. Ben, our lovely host
 

Scallop congee with shredded chicken
 

Barbecued meat platter
 

Pan-fried bean curd roll with shrimp
 

Stir-fried turnip cake with XO sauce
 

Steamed shrimp rice flour roll
 

Truffle dumpling with wild mushrooms
 

Barbecued pork bun
 

Siew mai
 

Ben’s almond dessert

If I had to pick one place to go to for dim sum the next time I visit, this would be it. The food was top-notch, every dish was well-presented, the service was attentive (a wait staff showed us all the way to the escalator after the meal), and the bill was reasonable. It unquestionably beats Maxim’s in Hong Kong any time. I now hold Cantonese restaurants to such standards (in terms of both food and service), so it’s going to be difficult to find me raving about another one in the near future.

Sigh. Shanghai, what are you doing to me?!
 

Tang’s Cuisine (Tanggong Yihao)
3/F Jinjiang Dickson Center
400 Changle Road
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 5757 5777

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shanghai 2012: The Spice Spirit service

After dropping off our shopping bags off at the apartment, we decided to hang around and wait for Ben to return (from the airport) before deciding on a dinner venue. Ben settled in after his flight, took a quick shower, and suggested we try out Spice Spirit, a Sichuan chain nearby. Since I happened to be in the mood for something spicy, I was all game.

Sichuan (or Szechuan) cuisine is a style of Chinese cuisine originating in the Sichuan Province of southwestern China that has bold flavors, particularly the pungency and spiciness resulting from liberal use of garlic and chili peppers, as well as the unique flavour of the Sichuan peppercorn.

– Wikipedia

We were seated at a round booth near the kitchen and given each a bowl of light, clear dessert to cleanse our palette. The booth concept reminded me of the teacup rides at the theme parks, except bigger and more adult-like. We never saw décor like that in Singapore’s restaurants because it takes up way too much space.

If you were there at the beginning of the meal, you’d see us trying (in vain) to wash down the spiciness with lots of watermelon juice and iced water, but as the meal progressed, our taste buds grew so numb we didn’t need any form of liquid to help with the spiciness. I think that was the point.

Ben did all the ordering so I can’t remember what exactly we had but I think it’s not going to surprise anyone when I say that all the dishes are of the highest level of tastiness, saltiness, spiciness, and their numbing quality could very well work as a fun alternative to anaesthesia for minor tongue surgeries (j/k).

Be sure to watch out for those little Sichuan peppercorns – they are *evil* balls of dynamites which explode on your tongue, leaving you gasping for air and water. Don’t say you haven’t been warned.

Great food aside, Spice Spirit also opened my eyes to the vast improvements Shanghai has made to its service standards since the Expo two years ago. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a long table lined with various types of juices and wine (all free). There was a comfortable seating area and numerous neatly-dressed and properly made-up wait staff hanging around in case customers needed their assistance. There was even a – wait for it – manicure station to help you pass the time while waiting in line during peak dining hours (also free).

We didn’t have to queue for dinner so I did mine after the meal instead. The girl who attended to me was chirpy, extremely polite and so attentive you wouldn’t believe we didn’t have to pay for this service. We chatted as she was working on my nails and we found out she was from a town not far away from Shanghai and had only started working a couple of weeks prior. She is taking some courses in the hopes of making more money and came across as very genuine and positive. I know she probably won’t see this but sincerely wish her the best wherever she is right now :)

After she was done, she served up another glass of fruit juice and escorted us all the way to the building elevator. Now, how’s that for service?
 

Spice Spirit
7/F, Meilongzhen Mall
1038 Nanjing Xi Lu
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 6217 1777

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shanghai 2012: Brunch at Jean Georges

One thing I absolutely love about holidays is being able to enjoy leisurely breakfasts in the morning. Why, just the idea of having a languid breakfast and the prospect of spending the rest of the day exploring makes me wish I could be on holiday forever. On a typical holiday, we would have breakfast at whichever hotel we put up at, but in Shanghai, we plan our own. For brunch that Saturday, we had selected Jean Georges, one of our favourite restaurants.

If you are thinking of the three Michelin-starred Jean Georges of New York City fame, you’re spot on. He chose Shanghai to first signature restaurant outside of New York in 2004, and brought with him his internationally-acclaimed French cuisine. The menu in Shanghai has a slight Asian twist, which makes it unique from the one in NYC.

Situated on prime location within the CBD, the restaurant overlooks the Pudong skyline and the Bund. Inside, it is dimly-lit, sprawling and opulent, decked with posh armchairs and couches, floor lamps and heavy scarlet curtains. For a setting like that, I was dressed rather casually but we were there for brunch so no one cared even if I were in shorts. I haven’t had the chance to try it out in the evening, but I can imagine that it transforms into this chic, fine dining restaurant where the only sounds you’d hear would be hushed conversations and light clanking of cutlery and, of course, there’d be a dress code.

We were seated by an arched window framing a picturesque view of the Pudong skyline. From the corner of my eye, I could catch glimpses of the Oriental Pearl Tower between the sun’s rays streaming in the window (it can rarely be seen in such totality because of the fog/pollution).

I ordered what we went back for – their signature brunch plate. It consists of a large, square plate of perfect eggs Benedict, buttermilk pancakes, smoked salmon on a potato galette and brioche French toast. For the price of 188RMB, I got high-quality pastries, breads, fresh juices, great service, atmosphere and views that people pay top dollar for at dinnertime.

L, with his ‘I want to try something different each time I visit a restaurant’ mantra, went for a three-course set from their ala carte menu. He selected a crab cake hors d’oeuvre, sirloin steak main and the prettiest almond and chocolate cake with vanilla ice-cream for dessert.

We ended the meal with Jean Georges’ standard petit fours arranged on a thin, long silver platter; one of them even had his logo on it.

With utterly satisfied bellies, we ambled back out into the sunlight and cool (but polluted) air and spent the next hour taking a slow walk down the Puxi side of the Bund, going snap happy like the hundreds of other tourists milling around that afternoon.

When we’ve had enough of the sunshine on our faces, we hopped onto a cab and headed back to freshen up. I spent the rest of the day piling on armfuls of clothes and popping in and out of fitting rooms at the H&M outlet near the apartment until dinnertime (I was on a roll there). Thankfully, L shares my love for shopping and is generally a great shopping companion who’d encourage you to “buy everything” if you tell him you’re undecided. What a dream husband-to-be :P

I won’t go as far as to say I love Shanghai but I think I should give it credit for its offering of great fine dining restaurants in the best prices. I don’t mean cheap, I mean paying a really reasonable price for the quality of ingredients that you get. You’ll see what I mean in the next few posts if you haven’t already made your own conclusion from my previous travelogues on Shanghai :)
 

Jean Georges
4/F, No. 3 on The Bund
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Lu
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 6321 7733

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shanghai 2012: A Charme-d lunch

This visit to Shanghai was a gastronomical one so there won’t be a single post about the trip that does not involve food. In fact, our meals will be the focus of this travelogue. Allow me.

I arrived in Shanghai late on Thursday so all there was time for was to go through the motions at the immigrations checkpoint, slump in the backseat of the car as it took me into the city, and catch up with L between mouthfuls of Myojo Tom Yam cup noodles in Ben’s apartment. I was pleased as a punch to see him after five days :)

This was my eighth time in Shanghai (!) so we didn’t have to stress about making the most of our day, rushing from one attraction to another or doing anything touristy. We just planned our schedule around meals, and spent most of our time chilling out or shopping. I loved it.

For some reason, I was quite exhausted from the flight (I don’t know what L’s excuse is :P) so we only managed to haul ourselves out of bed close to lunchtime the next day. Both of us got ready in half an hour and popped out to the metro just a few steps away for lunch at Charme.

Charme (also known as Gang Li) is one of my favourite restaurants in Shanghai. It is a Hong Kong-style restaurant/café that serves up an extensive array of fusion dishes, from dan dan noodles to spaghetti. I couldn’t leave from a visit to Shanghai without going back to Charme at least once so I was glad we got it out of the way with this first meal.

The dan dan noodles is a must-order for us – it is the driest, chewiest and tastiest dan dan noodles I’ve ever had and I’ve not been able to find anything like it anywhere else so far. Comfort food at its best.

L also decided we needed to try something different so he ordered us the deep-fried bullfrog dish. The bullfrog dishes we have in Singapore are usually steamed so this was interesting. It wasn’t bad but quite forgettable; kind of tasted like mildly-fried chicken and would go perfectly with rice.

Of course, being gluttons, we didn’t think that was enough so we threw in a baked mushroom dish for good measure.

I’ve saved the best for last – The Bread Box. Don’t be fooled by how simple it looks, it is DELICIOUS. The insides of the baked honey bread loaf, soft and fluffy, is sliced evenly into bite-sized cubes; it is topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and held together with the crust.

The combination is a nice balance of warm bread and cold ice-cream, sweet vanilla and milky dough – one of the best and most unique desserts you’ll see around. I only regret feeling too stuffed from the earlier dishes to enjoy it more.

Post-lunch activity was a visit to the Shi Liu Pu fabric market (where the tailor’s is) and a nice cool-weather stroll.
 

Charme Restaurant
299 East Nan Jing Road
Hong Yi Plaza
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 6360 7577

 

Read the rest of my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Spring in Shanghai

The Bund, Shanghai (2012)

Anddd… I’m back! From five days of cool Spring weather in Shanghai, witnessing flowers of all shades bloom and residents shed their thick fur coats for light cardigans. It was very comfortable weather but did get chilly at times so we strolled a lot less than L would’ve liked. Whenever my jaw started aching, I would just want to hop into a cab or disappear indoors.

We stayed at a friend’s apartment located on Nanjing Lu. It’s like living in Wisma in Singapore. We were just 50 steps away from the metro and minutes away from the humongous H&M, Uniqlo and GAP outlets. Really, we couldn’t have stayed at a better location even if we paid for it and he put us up for free. (Thanks, Ben!)

I went on this trip with only one aim, and that is to tick off my list of items to tailor. I knew for sure we were going to expand our waistlines with lots of delectable, spicy, artery-clogging food but there was no plan for any sort of Michelin star excitement. Thanks to the fiancé and his constant desire to make me happy, he decided to make reservations to take me to the newly-opened three Michelin starred restaurant, 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, the moment he heard about it from a friend. Oh, it made me happy alright. That might even be an understatement considering I once told myself I’d marry any man who took me on a date to a Michelin starred restaurant. What a happy coincidence (and now you know my priorities).

Jokes aside, I think this trip helped me view the Chinese city in a different light. Some things that used to disgust/annoy me, they now just amuse. A fellow Singaporean I spoke to saw the city as displaying “a lot of character”. I still don’t agree but I think I’ve somehow accepted that it’s just the way things are and just the way people behave.

Food reviews and photos are in order but for now, I shall rest. A crazy work day awaits.
 

Read my Shanghai travelogue:
Part 1 – A Charme-d lunch
Part 2 – Brunch at Jean Georges
Part 3 – The Spice Spirit service
Part 4 – Tang’s Cuisine
Part 5 – Brunch at Kommune
Part 6 – Fabulous dinner at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Long-distance without the bitter

Shanghai Memories 2010

Oriental Pearl Tower, Shanghai (2010)

As I type this, L is snuggling under the duvet in an apartment smack in the middle of Nanjing Road in Shanghai.

While on FaceTime with him earlier, it felt almost like we were transported back to the bittersweet days of our LDR, where we would spend hours in front of the webcam. Bitter because the distance makes everything so so hard (I will never forget how crushed I was when his planned trip home got cancelled at the last minute because of work). Sweet because the swell of happiness every time we meet again after a long while apart is pure and utter bliss.

I won’t kid you. It was bloody tough. Any couple who has been through, or is going through, a LDR can vouch for that. In fact, it’s so difficult you will not be able to imagine exactly how difficult it was if you’ve not been through it yourself. But we ploughed through all two and a half years of it (despite naysayers and the gambler’s nightmarish odds), looked into each others’ eyes and vowed we would never do this long-distance thing again, ever.

Thankfully, we didn’t fall and hit our heads so we’re not about to do it again. He is just on a two-week holiday and I will be joining him on Thursday for five days. Believe it or not, it will be our first time touring the city together. It will also be my first proper holiday this year. Can’t wait :)

Settling into Shanghai

Feeling a mixture of relief (because the weather is just not for me) and sadness (for obvious reasons) as I’m typing this.

L is now getting quite used to the serviced apartment he’s being put up at but he’s still looking out for a place. Think he’s going to view some this weekend so we’re crossing our fingers and hoping he’ll be able to find something he likes soon enough.

So here they are, the first set of photos of many to come :)

January 4 to 13, 2008 – Shanghai, China
(Click here to view album)

Hello from Shanghai

The boyfriend and I arrived here last Friday and spent the first two days getting him settled. Transport was arranged to pick us up from the airport and take us to his office so that he can say his hellos and pick a room – he picked one with full panelled glass windows overlooking the Huangpu River and Pudong. Really cool.

And on Saturday, we met up with an agent to view apartments, which was really exciting I must say. Saw some we really liked but still keeping our options open.

So we have officially survived one week of chilly weather, harrowing traffic experiences, human crowds and spicy, salty, oily MSG-laden food. (We love Shanghai!)

Will heading back to Singapore in two days. Write again then.

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